Didn't have any negative effects on the quality of the cuts, but I decided to go back to the damaged belt and wait for it to break before going to the link belt. The link belt worked ok, but it was quite noisy. I temporarily took the damaged belt off the pulleys and had it held out of the way as I tried out the link belt. I ended up sticking with the damaged belt. You have good timing with your question! I am in the process of replacing the inner pillow block bearing so I now know what needs to be done to replace the carriage drive belt. Are there any other things I should be thinking about? Do I need to worry about the blade no longer being perpendicular to carriage in the vertical direction (eg: would have to shim under the pillow block bearings to correct) or just in the horizontal direction (eg: adjust the set screw with the blue arrows). I guess I will end up checking the blade alignment anyway, just to be safe. I am not sure what is preventing oil from leaking out where the arbor shaft goes out the side of the case? There must be some sort of collar there that I am not seeing. I am thinking after I remove the bolts for the pillow blocks I will have to remove the blade and collars and then (hopefully) be able to slide the whole assembly out of the saw (to the left). Do you think I will have to realign the blade after the new belt is in place?įinally, here is another top view that also shows inside the saw case the arbor shaft, collar and blade. The blue arrows point to the set screws that are used to align the arbor shaft and blade with the carriage. I am thinking I have to remove the 4 bolts holding the pillow block bearings (red arrows).
The pulley on the right is the tension pulley and out of frame further to the right is the step pulley that controls the feed rate.
#HIGHLAND PARK LAPIDARY SAW REPLACEMENT PULLYS HOW TO#
The belt that is shown is what I am wondering how to replace. The pulley on the left is what holds the damaged drive belt. Before I do all that, I just wanted to confirm that I am doing it correctly. The question I have is how does one change the belt? It looks like you basically have to remove the saw from the arbor and then unbolt the pillow block bearings and then maybe slide the whole assembly out the side of the saw case in order to put the belt on. I figured while I am replacing one belt, I might as well do the other one too. Replacing this belt is simple enough, but while I was taking it off, I noticed that the other belt, the one that drives the carriage forward has a small split in it. This prevented the motor from burning out, but it caused the motor pulley to burn about half way through the drive belt. Fortunately, the drive belt was loose enough so that the motor kept turning while the belt and the blade staid still. I didn't notice until probably something like 10 minutes later (This is exactly why they tell you to never leave your saw unattended!). While slabbing a rock the other day, I had the blade jammed on me. I have an 18 inch Highland Park slab saw model J3. A one-third horse- power motor is standard and is available in 115v/60Hz or 230v/50Hz.Not a home made equipment question, but an equipment question just the same.
The saw is designed for positive slabbing and the vise assembly swings away for easy trimming. The 10-inch model has an infeed rate of 10 inches per hour.
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